When you receive your new hive, you will receive instructions They will explain:
How to assemble and set it up (BBSM bee-bio-symbiotic-mulch) in the bottom. Location to site your new hive, and how to bait.
Short version : Put it in your garden (any time of the year) bees move in, in swarm season. Then if you want honey you put honey boxes on.
Note: there are reportable conditions, so if they get sick or die, have a look into this
Common sense is still required as this is a box full of stinging insects.
The ideal position
A clear path for the bees to fly
Under a deciduous tree, so shade in summer and sun in winter.
Above is a section view of a Gardeners Beehive
1: Buy Your Hive
In my research into wild honey bees I have found a natural quirk. We take advantage of this and now have a self-regulating no guilt honey harvest. Bees will squirrel away honey in smaller compartments in a tree stump, add some honey boxes and this mimics this. These can then be removed at the end of summer, and this will be your honey!
Above is a natural beehive with extra honey stuck away. Can you see the extra Honey??
Here is a hive with bees just moving in on their own
You have a few options here :
Here is the one that really works the best
1: You can bait your hive from now until they move in (a week to a year or two)
Well you don’t have to do anything
3: Where and how I get bees?
If you were wandering??
A: body of hive or tree stump
B: BBSM ( bee bio symbiotic mulch)
C: comb with honey
D: comb with brood (babies)
E: entrance holes
F: honey box
G: EXTRA HONEY!!
H: small entrance, that is normally blocked off.
You have bees Now what?
Here is a Gardeners Beehive with a honey box This is to collect excess honey over the summer so we can rob it with little to no impact to the bees
Above is a section view of a natural beehive in a tree stump. Can you see the similarities??
2: Install: Optimum placement
Above: two honey boxes strapped together to make a honey bee colony lure box.
First thing you need to do: